Things had been stressful in Sussex recently. I decided what I needed was a walk to Santiago, and found a cheap flight to A Coruña.
“Your first stamp,” said the border guard. I wondered afterwards if there was a question in there – I like being chatty if I speak only some of the language, but I’m not keen on airports or airport security (or flying itself), and his follow up to “Buenos dias” was in English anyway. Also, I hadn’t slept (having taken the last train to Gatwick the night before the flight).
It didn’t take long to find a bus into town. It was hot and sunny, although far from the heat I’ve felt in southern Spain in the summer. By now it was 11am, and I walked around until I found a supermarket, and bought things for a sandwich which I ate by the marina – with a massive cruise liner pulled up. For some reason, I didn’t take any pictures of A Coruña that day, but here’s one from 10 days later, of a smaller ship just leaving:

I also bought some disgusting cigarettes and a lighter for just over 2 quid.
After finding a cheap hostel in Pereiro (in the opposite direction to Santiago de Compostela) I got a bus to Fene, and faced what seemed a dangerous and possibly illegal 5 km walk from Fene to Pereiro, so I hitchhiked the last few km – but not before taking my first photo of Spain in 20 years:
Building in Fene, Galicia, Spain (Sept 2025):

Not very exciting, and I’m not now sure why I took it – probably just looked to me quite Spanish, but I like nature staking its claim. But maybe I just thought I ought to get snapping…
Alda Cabanas Nature was clean and modern, and had everything I could want from a hostel, with the exception of a spoon – I drank my gazpacho from a glass.
The other 4 people in the 24-bed dormitory were nice: a Czech mother and son, and an Israeli couple. They were on the Camino Ingles from Ferrol.
Un/Fortunately, this isn’t the kind of travel writing where all the people I met smile out of photos – I hardly ever take non accidental pictures of people, and I didn’t think to ask the names of anyone (although over the next week, a couple of other people did do an introduction), but we talked about a few things, although the Czech mother I think could understand a bit but didn’t seem confident to speak.
The next day, I ended up walking to Ferrol (failing to catch a bus or hitch a lift) – to do the walk I’d loosely planned. One of the guests had mentioned a Decathlon shop in Ferrol, and I noticed from its website that they had shoes up to size 54 (which turned out to be about 7 sizes larger than what they actually stocked there…
“Ferrol is an industrial city”

Cars for scale:

Those things (parts of a tunnel?) were huge!
Here’s me in central Ferrol:

More historic than industrial, that bit.
Almost-empty train from Ferrol to Pontedeume:

Followed by a 5km hike up the hill…
I’d walked a lot, and not slept very much, over the last 60 hours. In the run up to this 2 weeks, I’d been doing an average of maybe a mile a day – maybe 2, and the morning I walked to Ferrol, I made the somewhat rash decision to gift my expensive hiking boots that pinched a little, sticking with an old pair of trainers I’d packed that used to be very comfortable…
…I think they’d started to smell, rather than having worn a hole somewhere, and I think I hadn’t thrown them out in case time would kill the germs. I decided to stick with them, and to get something with more strength and durability baked in and remaining for most of the walking: to get that from the shoe shop – that turned out to not in fact have shoes in my size.
So I spent 2 nights back at the hostel in Pereiro, waiting for the blisters and aches to subside. Which I think probably wasn’t the best decision at all. Photo-wise: I only took one picture.
Here it is – is it a pine cone?

The Cacophony of laughter-pine-cone.
I left just before dawn on day 4…
Nice house in Cabanas, with pampas grass growing out of it:

I saw my first stag beetle. Dead, unfortunately:

But I don’t think it was dead beetles that inspired me to up the conversation with the chatbots; into death, sociopathy, and whether or not the world is a simulation…



